Chap. XIII. – Made Dishes, pp.360-372.

[Made Dishes Contents]

Beef à-la-Mode,

Is made of a buttock of beef of any size; prepare a rich force meat thus: Pick the flesh from a fowl and the same quantity of nice bacon, with mixed spices and the yolks of eggs, wine and bread crumbs; take out the bone of the meat, and pierce it through with a larding pin, force it well and bind it together to keep the shape; rub it with spiceries, lay three long rib bones in the bottom of the stewpan to prevent its sticking, or a few well polished skewers; pour in a quart (choppin) of good stock, or water, shut it close up, let it stew gently two hours, turn the meat and stew it till ready; dish the beef, strain the liquor into the dish and serve it hot; or cold, cut in thin slices and garnished with parsley, endive, or myrtle. 

Beef à-la-Royal,

Is made with the brisket. Bone and pierce a great many holes through it, force it with rich highly seasoned force meat of different kinds, alternately, in every hole; dust it with flour, and stew it in stock, or a quart of water, till tender. Or, bake it two hours and a half, skim the gravy clean, and dish the meat, pour in the gravy and serve it. 

Porcupine of Beef.

   Cut the bones out of a brisket, lard with bacon, roll it up and boil it slowly three hours. 

Bombarded Veal,

Is a fillet or gigot of veal done as the porcupine, and wrapped in the caul. 

Mutton Kebobbed.

    Cut a loin (loin and backribs) of mutton through at every joint, pick off the skin and fat, roll each piece in mixed spices finely pounded, then dip them in eggs whipped light, and strew on them bread crumbs; replace the pieces as at first side by side, tie, spit, and roast then quickly, basting well with fresh butter and their gravy as it drops; dust them twice with the spices and crumbs, take a sup of good gravy, boil it with what is in the dripping pan (thicken with a little flour if you incline) skim it well, add some ketchup, dish the mutton and a pour it over. 

China Chilo.

   Mince a piece of any kind of good fat meat that is underdone, pepper and salt it well, take a few onions, cauliflowers, and lettuce cut down, a pint of peas, asparagus, and any other sweet vegetable you chuse; clarify a piece of butter, put all into a stewpan, with a cupful of veal soup, or water, add seasoning to your taste; shut it quite close, stew till it is rich and good; swell a dish of rice, make a cavity in the middle, into which pour it and serve it hot. 

Beef à-la-Vingritte,

Is underdone beef cut in slices and stewed with a very little water and wine, spices and sweet herbs; when one side is done, turn over the other. It is served cold with the gravy strained and mixed with vinegar for a sauce. 

Beef Olives.

   Cut thin slices from a rump or sirloin of beef that is very tender. If it has no fat on it flatten and roll a bit within every slice, with plenty of spiceries, such as suits your taste; tie each with a packthread and fry them. Prepare a beef stock with a carrot and cauliflower pulped through a search [thin muslin], one gill of sherry, two dozen fried oysters, with their liquor, a little Cayenne, or white pepper, and a little lemon juice; strain the liquor and stew the olives nearly an hour, add a spoonful of fresh ketchup, or have a few mushrooms stewed in the sauce; serve it hot. 

Veal Olives

Are done the same way. 

Beef Bouillie.

   Make choice of six or eight pounds well mixed beef, either of the brisket or thick of the loin, if you chuse it lean take the end of the rump; put it to one gallon boiling water, let it boil till tender, mince a handful of parsley, boil it in half a pint of the beef stock, mince some pickled cucumbers and beans, brown an ounce and a half of fresh butter and fry a large onion shred very small in it; then add the stock and parsley, thicken it with a spoonful of flour mixed with a little more stock, throw in the shred pickles, boil all three minutes, have the beef ready in the dish, pour the sauce over and serve it hot. To those who prefer high seasoning, the meat may be stewed with mixed spices and all manner of sweet herbs, also a rich high seasoned sauce poured over. When the meat is drawn, a very excellent soup may be made from the liquor by adding a few ounces of rice, or maccaroni, with a handful of chopt parsley and chives; keep the beef hot as before directed. 

Beef Gobbeis, or Mouthfuls.

   Cut a piece of tender beef in small pieces, rub them well with mixed spices, powdered thyme, and garlic; fry them a good colour, then stew them till tender in a rich brown sauce; garnish with pickles and serve them. 


   Pick the flesh from a cold roast fowl, preserving the bones of the neck, back, and ribs whole; mince the meat very small, or pound it in a mortar with the yolks of four hard boiled eggs, mixed spices, salt, and a gill of cream; stew all a few minutes with a little savoury white sauce; see that it is seasoned to taste, broil the bones of the back; dish the meat, lay the bones over, decorated with sprigs of myrtle, garnish the edges and serve. It makes a pretty supper dish. 


   Make a force meat of cold fowl or fat veal, roasted bacon and hard eggs, white pepper, pounded mace, salt, parsley chopped, bread crumbs, raw eggs and cream; knead all gently in a dish, cut some broad thin slices of raw veal, season them well and wrap a piece of the force, or minced meat, in each, lengthways, tie and dip them in batter, roll them in crumbs and parsley, fry them in boiling dripping; let them drain before the fire, garnish with green and serve with or without sauce at pleasure. 

Fricandeau of Veal.

   Take a piece of veal without bones or sinews, lard it well with bacon, stew till tender in beef stock, then drain off the liquor and season it with nutmeg, lemon, mushroom ketchup, white wine, salt, and a little flour to thicken, sharpen it with spiced vinegar, and, if you incline, green it with spinage juice; make a strong glaze of part of the liquor, dish and glaze it; garnish to taste. 

Mutton Rumps and Rice.

   Take a few rumps, boil till nearly tender in good stock sufficient to cover them, take out the rumps and put in half a pound rice, an onion stuffed with white pepper and cloves, a grate of nutmeg and a little salt; stir till all is quite tender, keep it close while you either fry the rumps (first dipping them in a batter, spiceries and sweet herbs,) or broil them crisp; then pick out the onion, add two beaten yolks of eggs, stirring rice and all well over the fire, dish and smooth it, laying the rumps over. 

Harrico of Mutton.

   Make a stock of beef or mutton, with a carrot, turnip, onion, parsley, salt and spices; then take as many slices of mutton from the back ribs or neck as will make your dish. Observe that the mutton be tender, fry them a good brown; pick out the onion and roots, skim and strain the liquor, cut the carrots and turnip in rings, or stars; lay the steaks and roots in the liquor when it boils; let them all stew half an hour, dish the steaks, lay the roots neatly round and pour the sauce over. 

To Curry Chickens, Fowl, Veal, &c.

   Cut a chicken in small pieces, also a few onions in rings, fry both a good brown, then simmer in one pint of veal stock till the chicken is tender; twenty minutes before serving rub down a large spoonful of curry powder, a little flour, a bit of fresh butter, and half a gill of cream; immediately before it is served add a spoonful of gooseberry vinegar, or squeeze of lemon. All underdone white meats make excellent curry. Send it up with a dish of rice dressed thus: Take what quantity of rice you need, pick and throw it in boiling water, let it boil briskly till it is soft, then throw it in a cullender, frequently turning it up, to crimp and dry, before a good fire; serve the curry and rice in separate dishes. 

   Rice used for puddings, soup, &c. should be put on with cold water, in a well buttered pot, or stewpan, soaked slowly and never stirred till it has sucked in all the liquor. 

A Haggis

Is generally made with a sheep’s draught, or pluck; wash and clean it well by slitting all the pipes and heart; parboil, then mince it small; boil the liver well and grate the half of it; shred small from ten ounces to a pound of suet, according to the size of the meat, a few onions, and half a pound of oatmeal; mix it well together, and season it with mixed spices, pepper and salt, to your taste. Have ready the haggis bag, perfectly sweet and clean, pour into the compound a quart (choppin) of good gravy, mix it up and fill the bag, press out all the air before you sew it up. If the bag is thin tie it in a cloth to prevent its bursting. A pretty large one requires about two hours boiling. 

A Lamb’s Haggis

Is made in like manner, with the addition of a few eggs made into a pancake batter with flour and milk, some young parsley, chives, and onions, minced small, in place of the oatmeal. This will take nearly an hour to boil. 

Rabbit Smothered with Onions.

   Brown a good lump of fresh butter in a close pot, or stewpan, peel what quantity of onions you wish and brown them gently in it, observing not to darken the butter too much; cut the rabbit in pieces, or if you chuse keep it whole; have it well blanched and dried, pepper and salt it; dust a little flour, give it a good turn in the butter till it browns, then add a pint of stock, or boiling water, shut it close and stew till very tender; see that it is properly seasoned and serve it hot. Chickens are done the same way. 

Rabbits Smothered White.

   They must be parboiled in milk and water, seasoned with mixed spices and onions and stewed in rich white gravy

Hen, or Chicken, Marinated.

   When it has boiled half an hour take it out and make a rich savoury sauce, adding parsley, fried oysters and their liquor, wine, lemon juice, and force meat balls; put in the fowl and stew it gently seventeen minutes; dish the fowl, pour over the sauce, garnish and serve it hot. 

Pigeons in Disguise.

   Take five fat pigeons, clean and wipe out their insides, pepper and salt them well; take a cold fowl, or piece of raw veal, mince it very fine; also a few slices of tongue or ham, a little mace or nutmeg, salt, a handful of asparagus tops or good cauliflower chopped small, a lump of fresh butter, a few bread crumbs and a glass of sherry; knead all together, stuff and sew up the pigeons, half roast them in a Dutch oven, basting well with butter and pepper. Have five pieces of puff paste prepared, large enough to envelope each pigeon; lay it on its breast, fold the paste neatly over at the back and mark the legs and wings with a paste cutter; decorate the breast like a leaf, and when all done put them into an oven; bake the paste well, glaze it and serve the pigeons. The meat of chickens, or fowl, chopped, seasoned, enclosed in paste and then fried, makes a nice dish. 

Pigeons in a Hole.

   Take a few small fat pigeons, truss as for boiling, season them well with pepper and salt and a good piece of butter in each; put them neatly in a deep pudding dish, pour over a good pancake batter and bake them in an oven moderately hot. 

Savoury Jelly.

   For savoury jelly take the sinewy part of a leg of beef, a shank of veal, and a piece of good ham; boil till the strength is extracted, then add a few carrots, turnips, and onions, Cayenne and white pepper, salt, lemon peel, a stalk of thyme, half a pint (two gills) sherry, half a gill ketchup, and the whites of eggs well whipt; season it pretty high, (allow twelve whites to clarify one gallon jelly); put all on the fire, boil it a few minutes, and strain through a flannel bag repeatedly till it is quite transparent. When it is to be used for ornamental dishes, such as fowls, lobsters, &c. to every two quarts (pint) of jelly, allow an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little water, and add with the whites. 

Hen, or Chickens, in Jelly.

   Take a very large plump fowl, bone it, except the rump and pinions; pick the meat of a chicken, take equal weight of boiled bacon ham, mince them fine, season with pepper and salt and what spiceries you chuse; mix all together with a few yolks of eggs, a good bit of butter and some cream, stuff and sew up the fowl, boil it gently an hour, pour a little warm milk and water over to make it look fair and white; drain and set it up to cool. Have ready a sufficient quantity of rich highly clarified veal jelly, pour in a pint, or quart, according to the size of your mould; cool it, then place the fowl breast downwards, with a Bantam’s egg hard boiled and shelled at each corner, one at the neck, and another at the rump, stuck with bay leaves, placing the glossy side down and the points of each outwards; then fill the mould as high as the back of the fowl; when cold dip the shape quickly in hot water and turn it on a dish. 

Chickens in Savoury Jelly.

   Make the jelly with calf’s feet, season it with vinegar and spiceries, roast the chicken; when cold proceed as above directed. 

Small Birds in Savoury Jelly.

   Put a small piece of butter rolled in flour with spices and salt, in the belly of each, sew up the vents, put them in a jug, cover it close, place it in a pot of boiling water and stew till they are tender; when cold proceed as above. After the jelly in the dish is cold, put in a few of the birds, cover them with jelly, and when it is firm lay on a few more and fill it up. 

Lobster in Jelly.

   Take a boiled lobster, draw off the tail and claws very carefully; crack the shell of the tail and take out the meat whole, preserving the fine red on it and the fan of the tail; crack the claws, or, when there is no possibility of getting the meat out whole, saw the shell neatly on each side and take it off, then clean out the body shell, taking care to keep the horns whole; pick the meat of another lobster, or (if not at hand) a few crab’s claws minced and seasoned, stew it with a little of the jelly, fill the shell and cool it; also put two or three inches depth of jelly in the shape you intend turning; when cold lay the body shell, meat of the tail and claws, also the small legs, back downwards; draw a horn round each side of the shape as nearly as possible to imitate nature; let the jelly be as cool as it will pour well and then fill up the shape. Observe that every thing keeps its proper place; when cold dip it in hot water and turn it on its proper dish. 


Being greatly used as a middle dish at supper, a shape to raise it in the middle will be found a great ease in dressing it out, and may be had, either of crock or glass, at a trifling expence. The beauty of this dish depends entirely on taste in making and placing the various articles of different colours where they will have the best effect. Cover the bottom always with green; then a layer of white, such as veal, chicken, or fowl; next grated ham or tongue, beets or cabbage, hard boiled eggs chopped fine and the white part tastefully disposed, chopped anchovies, and as many different ingredients as suits taste or conveniency piled above each other; place an ornament of green on the top; garnish with green and curled butter all over. 


Place a root glass in the middle of the dish, filled with long green stalks, and green and red flowers hanging pendent over the dish; lay the gundy in neat heaps, of different colours, the size of tea cups, round in the dish; garnish the edges with the white of a hard egg cut into rings, stuck with green leaves and a scarlet pink, or daisy, in the middle of the ring. 

Curled Butter.

   Press it through a clean coarse hair sieve, it has a light and showy appearance. 

Hedge Hog in Jelly.

   Follow the direction given for making almond biscuits; make a quantity the size of an hedge hog, shape it properly, and stick it all over with blanched almonds cut like prickles, cover well with paper on the top and bake in a cool oven. 


Have the block of an hedge hog made of wire and covered with paste; then cover the block with the almond paste, half an inch thick, very neatly, finish it with almond prickles as above, and bake it; put it in jelly as directed for a lobster, using calfsfoot jelly (p. 92.); make a very stiff blamange, three inches deep, exactly to fit, turn it on the dish the hedge hog is to be turned on, place the jelly over the blamange and touch the jelly mould gently all over with a cloth squeezed from boiling water, which will make it come off easily; garnish the edge with a green wreath. This is a beautiful middle dish. 

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